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in California
MARK TWAIN HOTEL SAN FRANCISCO
Billie Holiday Suite and a Bargain Stay at Union Square
Most
people know Mark Twain from his books inspired by his early days as
a boy and riverboat pilot
along
the Mississippi, but before becoming
the Great American writer and humorist, Samuel Clemens spent his early
writing years as a reporter and newspaper columnist, first in the gold
strikes era of Nevada, then in the post gold rush years spent
in San Francisco after a brief stay in the Sierra’s (see Mark Twain’s
Jumping Frog). Mark Twain the writer has no connection to Mark Twain
the Hotel, built a half century following his departure for Connecticut
and book tours to Europe (see. The Mark Twain Hotel’s direct celebrity
connection is to American jazz’s and blues great chanteuse, Billie
Holiday, who was arrested for opium possession while staying at the hotel
with her former bassist turned manager, John Levy in 1949.
San
Francisco can be an expensive town to find a hotel. The Mark Twain
Hotel owned as a collection of
boutique hotel properties
under a CTwo brand is a quite
reasonable cost conscious alternative to big brand chain hotels if staying
downtown close to Union Square. The Mark Twain Hotel is located on Taylor
St. at O’Farrell
directly across the street from the San Francisco Hilton at half the
price or better. Like most older city hotels, building is typical of
San Francisco’s 20’s-30’s non-descript architecture,
but the lobby and lounge have a nice colorful design feel. The rooms
are smallish, with wood frame windows rather than the plates of glass
you'll
find at
the
Hitlon,
and
certainly
no
grand atrium, but all with flat screen TV's. The Mark Twain is easy to
get to for drivers unfamiliar with San
Francisco - the 5th exit off
the
Bay
Bridge
virtually
turns
onto
one-way Taylor
Street. Within
two blocks walk is Union Square shopping and the theater district. The
hotel is comfortable with a friendly staff,
a popular organic "Fish & Farm
restaurant and an eclectic small bar/lounge rather known for serving
its own
concoctions
of fruit and vegitable(!) based alcoholic cocktails. Try a Blueberry
Daiquiri. Or if you want the big chain hotel experience without spending
the bucks you can just cross the street to hang out in the Hilton Lobby.
The
hotel’s
claim to historical fame is the Billie Holiday Suite. Fans of the singer
or those looking
for a curious story to tell of a
visit to San Francisco can request to stay in room 203. Not actually
a suite, but a quite ordinary hotel room, the principal feature of which
is a bronze plaque on the wall outside the door, and inside a framed
poster art portrait of the singer and
a newspaper article from the San
Francisco Chronicle
recounting the story of a raid by the San Francisco police into the
room on January 22 of 1949, during which a search uncovered
an opium pipe and a small cake of the drug. Billie Holiday was in San
Francisco for a performance gig and the bust was her second in two years.
The defense first claimed the bust was a frame up by the San Francisco
police, then blamed Levy. Billie Holiday was found not guilty, but that
didn’t
stop a spiral downward as1949 turned out to be perhaps the zenith of
Holiday’s career as the hard living started to affect her
voice.
One
might find oneself in the Billie Holiday suite without requesting it,
even as a last minute cut
rate offer as
a standard class room. Notable only for its place in history, the room
is on the first floor above the lobby with windows looking out on Taylor
Street, which can be quite busy at all hours with street noise. No need
for an alarm clock as the delivery trucks will rumble by in the morning,
but then, that’s San Francisco - if you want to hear sea lions
and seagulls, stay by the wharf (see Wharf
Inn). The hotel offers “superior” rooms
which have upgraded linens and are on quieter higher floors. There is
a city parking garage caty-corner a half block away on O’Farrell
Street or in-out valet parking is offered for $27 a day. For those unfamiliar,
the area around Union Square
can be that San Francisco curious mixture, a little grotty with pan-handlers
and street denizens, adult entertainment venues (the notorious O’Farrell
Street theater is a few blocks west), mixed with high end stores and
luxury hotels at Union Square and cozy Irish Pub bars. The Powell Street
Cable Car line for a ride over the hill to Chinatown
or the wharf is two blocks away, as is the Powell St BART station on
Market
Street.
For
a city and bay view walk (actually a climb) straight up Taylor street
to Nob Hill. © Bargain
Travel West
Book
Hotel Mark Twain at Hotels.com
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Find
best hotel and vacation deals in San
Francisco on TripAdvisor
Web Info
Mark
Twain Hotel
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